Gooseberry Yoghurt Cake

When I first decided I wanted to have a go at writing, and that food would be the central theme running through it, there was one person who inspired me above all others. To read anything by Nigel Slater is to be led into a world where every flavour sparks a memory. Every new taste opens up a world of possibilities and where enthusiasm for food is unbounded.

One of the writing courses I took was based on memoirs and it was Nigel’s book Toast I wanted to emulate. The story of a young boy growing up and how every key moment in life can be linked back to food. Reading it took me back to watching my mother bake cakes, the smells in my grandmother’s kitchen and some of the unusual things I got to try when living in Malta during my childhood. If I’m feeling down, or in need of some inspiration, Toast is the book I turn to.

Nigel’s recipes never seem to include too many ingredients. He’s all about the flavour. Having one, maybe two key items, and then ensuring they are enhanced and highlighted to the best degree.

The one I’m sharing here was featured recently in the weekly column he writes for the Observer newspaper. It’s a cake where the consistency sits somewhere between a sponge and a cheesecake. It’s light and delicate and the slightly sharp fruit compote rounds it off perfectly.

The first time I made it, my partner’s 92-year-old mother described it as possibly the best cake she’s ever tasted. Praise doesn’t get better than that.

Ingredients

• Eggs – 4
• Caster sugar – 100g
• Lemon – 1, you just need the grated zest
• Natural yoghurt – 500g
• Plain flour – 40g
• Cornflour – 3tbsp
• Gooseberries – 450g
• Honey – 3tbsp

Method

• Line a 20cm cake tin and pre-heat the oven to 140c, 120fan or Gas mark 3
• Separate the eggs, putting the whites in one bowl and the yolks in another. Add the sugar to the bowl containing the yolks and whisk until creamy. Then add the lemon zest and whisk again.
• Next, stir the yoghurt into the yolk and sugar mixture. Then sieve together the plain flour and cornflour, before stirring it into the mixture.
• Now whisk the egg whites until thick and fluffy, then fold them into the mixture. Try to do this fairly gently so that you don’t knock the air out of the whisked whites.
• Transfer the mixture to the lined tin and bake for 50 minutes. When you take it out of the oven it should have risen, a bit like a souffle. It will be quite fragile, so it’s important to let it cool completely before getting it out of the tin. Don’t worry if the cake sinks a bit in the middle while cooling.
• To make the fruit compote, top and tail the gooseberries, then put them in a saucepan with the honey. Bring them to the boil, then lower the heat and cook for a further 10 minutes. 

If you can’t get or don’t like gooseberries. Nigel does say that apricots or blackcurrants would work well as an alternative.

In the picture with Nigel’s recipe, he’d spread the compote over the cake before cutting and serving. It’s your choice, but I prefer to leave the cake naked with the compote on the side.

As the cake is so soft, it’s best kept in the fridge. That of course is if you have any left over to store.