Cafe conversations

I wrote this short piece for a cafe themed writing challenge that Alison Trollop put on her Patreon site.

”How did you come across him?”

Cafe conversations, going on around me.

“How old was he?”

Like a badly tuned radio.

“I hope you like cinnamon.”

Fragments fluttering by.

“I stood on a box.”

Cup half empty.

“Does it really matter?”

Used to be half full.

“I prefer cardamon.”

Pastry turned to crumbs.

“I’ve heard that joke before.”

I missed the punchline. 

“It always matters.”

I suppose it does

“Have you tried them together?”

At every opportunity.

“Can you hear that radio?”

Someone’s playing with the dial.

“Are you talking to me?”

They’re playing Station to Station.

Apple, lemon and chocolate cake

The cake in the picture with this post may not be the best-looking thing I’ve put on here, but it just might be one of the tastiest.

It’s the sort of cake I know would hardly register with me if I saw it on a bakery counter. My gaze soon moving to the more cream-laden, highly decorated things around it.  But it would be my loss, I’d be missing out on the wonderful contrast between chunks of sweet apple and shards of bitter chocolate, to say nothing of hints of whisky, lemon and fennel running through the cake. Proof perfect that you shouldn’t always eat with your eyes. It really is about the flavour.

The recipe comes from Honey & Co Baking and is a favourite in this house. Honey & Co are a London based deli and restaurant, specialising in middle eastern foods, their recipes packed with flavours and I highly recommend this and their two other books. All three are on my shelf. I’ve never made it to their London base but have seen the owners/writers, Sarit Packer & Itamar Srulovich, at the Aldeburgh food festival a couple of times. They’re great fun to watch and the food they’ve produced has been mouth-watering.

I baked the cake yesterday, along with a loaf of rye bread, and by the end, the kitchen was infused with a heady mixture of freshly baked bread, cooked apple and a touch of aniseed from the fennel. If any scented candle makers are reading, you have to try this combination.

Many of my recent posts have been about comfort food, and this is another which falls firmly into that category. If lockdown and the general malaise of this time of year weren’t enough, we’ve now had over 24 hours of constant snow and there’s at least another days worth in the forecast. Plenty of time to stare out of the window with a coffee in one hand and a slice of cake in the other.

Ingredients

  • 2 tbsp whiskey
  • zest & juice of a lemon
  • 2 apples diced…no need to peel
  • 40g strong dark chocolate…I used 85% cocoa chocolate in this
  • 2 eggs
  • 160g caster sugar
  • 130ml vegetable oil
  • 150g plain flour
  • 1.5 tsp baking powder
  • 1tsp ground nutmeg
  • 1tsp ground fennel seeds..to get the best flavour I recommend toasting them first 
  • pinch of salt

Method

  • Heat the oven to gas mark 4 and line a 1kg loaf tin.
  • Mix the whisky & lemon juice and zest in a bowl. Chop the apples and leave them to soak in the whisky and lemon mix
  • Chop the chocolate into shards and put it in the fridge while you prepare the cake
  • In a bowl whisk the sugar and eggs until they puff up and go pale.
  • Then still using the whisk pour in the oil until it is all incorporated.
  • Use a spatula to fold in the flour, baking powder, nutmeg, fennel and salt. Once all combined fold in the apple along with the whisky and lemon juice, then finally the chocolate.
  • Pour the batter into the lined tin and bake for 35 minutes. Then turn the tin around and bake for another 15 minutes. As the batter for this cake is very runny I sometimes find these times need to be extended.
  • The cake is ready when a knife pressed into it comes out clean.
  • Let the cake cool in the tin before you take it out.

Comfort food from my favourite cookbook.

My cookbook library is extensive and will soon need a larger bookcase to house it. Lockdown may have stopped random buys resulting from bookshop browsing, but it’s still grown over the last 12 months. I keep feeling now should be the time to pull out some of those which don’t see the light of day too often. An opportunity to explore new avenues and flavours. Unfortunately, this clashes with an even stronger desire to cook the things I know and love. To spend time in the kitchen and be assured the result is going to be some comfort food.

Some of the books waiting to be explored are quite niche in the types of food they cover. There’s one which is specific to cooking over an open fire, this will have to wait for warmer weather before I’m tempted to even have a go. There’s a Japanese book, bought primarily for the wonderful photography, which requires ingredients way beyond what I currently have in the pantry. A book of Kenyan recipes has the same problem. Pre coronavirus a shopping expedition before cooking something new was an integral and enjoyable part of the process. Now it feels much more about what’s in the pantry today and what’s going to guarantee me some comfort.

That’s why I turned this morning to one of my all-time favourite cookbooks, Clare Ptak’s Violet Bakery Cookbook. I bought my copy as soon as it was published in 2015 and in the intervening six years, I’ve tried most of the recipes. I’d seen some in a magazine a couple of months before the book coming out and already had a go at baking them. I put pictures of my efforts on Twitter and was one very chuffed baker when Clare responded with positive feedback.

What I love about Clare’s food is it’s packed full of flavour, always slightly on the indulgent side, yet the recipes are adaptable. By this I mean they work well at a time when your cupboards might not contain the exact recipe ingredients, but you do have some viable alternatives.

Although the book is predominately sweet recipes, there are some savoury dishes as well. One of my favourites is a braised fennel, olive and caper bread pudding. Whenever I can get fresh fennel this is my dish of choice. The fennel braised with tomatoes, capers and olives, spiced with thyme and chilli flakes. This is then layered between sourdough bread along with grated Gruyere & dollops of ricotta, the whole thing soaked in a custard made of eggs, milk and cream. Wildly indulgent and comforting. On the off chance, there is any left, it works the following day as an exotic crispy sandwich. Not unlike a vegetarian croque.

It wasn’t savoury food which took me back to the book this morning though, it was was the urge for something sweet in the house. That’s why we have pistachio, hazelnut & raspberry friands. 

I’ve baked these dozens of times and they couldn’t be easier to make. In some ways it’s almost appropriate spellcheck keeps trying to get me to type friends rather than friends.

Ingredients 

  • 115 butter.. melted
  • 90g plain flour
  • 0.75 tsp baking powder
  • 50g ground almonds
  • 40g ground hazelnuts
  • 40g ground pistachios
  • 190g icing sugar
  • 5 egg white .. slightly whipped
  • 2 tsp vanilla extract
  • 200g raspberries
  • 50k chopped pistachios

Method

  • Preheat the oven to gas mark 3. Butter a 12 hole cupcake tin
  • Put all of the ingredients other than the raspberries and chopped pistachios into a bowl of a food processor and whisk until foamy
  • Spoon the mixture into the cupcake tin and top with the raspberries and chopped pistachios
  • Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, the tops will be springy to the touch when done.
  • Leave to cool slightly in the tin, then remove and dust with icing sugar. 

We may have over ordered on the lemons

I think we may have over-ordered on the lemons.

Like most people, we’re trying to limit our supermarket trips at the moment. Trying to follow the lockdown rules and only going out when necessary. Getting a home delivery is proving nigh on impossible, but we are having some success with click and collect. Yesterday was the second time we’ve used the service and the lemon situation is perhaps proof we’re still novices. Neither of us registering that the lemon icon we clicked on when placing the order showed eight in the packet. Which of course means we now have eight in our fruit bowl.

So now we’ve got to think of ways to use them up. The sunshine through our kitchen window this morning was making them look rather wonderful just sat in the fruit bowl, but it would be a shame to waste them.

Option one is going to be a generous slice in a glass of gin and tonic this evening. A Monday night drink feels a bit decadent, but I think in the current circumstances we all need a treat at the end of the day.

Later in the week, it will be time for a lemon meringue pie. One of my childhood favourites, the tang of the lemons, the sweetness of the meringue, the pastry base adding another texture. My mother used to often make them and whenever I bake one it takes me back to her kitchen. I can remember watching them go into the oven and I’ve never lost the sense of anticipation, the wondering just how good it’s going to taste when it comes out.

A lemon drizzle cake is one of my partners mothers favourites, and as she’s living with us now I don’t think it will be long until there’s a request for one. I never used to be a fan, but since I started making my own and nearly drowning them in syrup I’ve been converted.

Then there are lemon & tahini biscuits. Ever since I discovered these in Ruby Tandoh’s Crumb* they’ve been a favourite in this house. A crumbly shortbread biscuit with powerful flavours. The combination of lemon, the sesame taste of tahini and sugar works wonderfully. Sweet, savoury and tangy in one bite.

I do make one amendment to Ruby’s recipe. In the book, she just uses the zest of two lemons, but I find that’s not quite enough. I’ve taken to adding the juice of one of the lemons as well and this seems to give an extra zing to the biscuits.

The recipe makes 24. It may sound like a lot, but I assure you they won’t last long in the biscuit tin.

Ingredients

  • 120g unsalted butter..softened
  • 120g tahini paste
  • 120g caster sugar..granulated sugar works as well
  • Zest of two lemons and the juice of one
  • 240g plain flour
  • 1tsp baking powder

Method

  • Preheat the oven to gas mark 4 and line a baking tray
  • Cream the butter, sugar and tahini until pale and fluffy, then mix in the lemon zest and juice.
  • In a separate bowl mix the flour and baking powder, then stir this into the wet ingredients. Use the back of a spoon to mash the mixture until combined.
  • Roll the mixture into 24 roughly equal size ball and place them on the baking tray. Flatten each ball into a disc that is approximately 1cm thick.
  • Bake for 12 to 15 minutes until the biscuit edges are golden. 
  • The biscuits will be very crumbly when you first take the tray out of the oven. Leave them to cool completely before you try moving them.

* Ruby’s book Crumb is currently only £6.15 on Amazon. If you’re looking to treat yourself during lockdown I cannot recommend it highly enough. It’s one of the most used books on my shelf.

Magazines for the stay at home food traveller

The first thing I read this morning was the government is currently looking to April as the soonest the current lockdown might be eased. Given the UK posted it’s highest daily death figures for the pandemic only yesterday, we’re going to have the hatches battened down for a long time yet, even April might turn out to be optimistic.

If the current situation is going on for that long we’re all going to have to find ways of travelling and getting out which don’t actually require leaving the house.

Magazines have always been one of my weaknesses and various subscriptions mean they’re coming through the letterbox on a very regular basis. Over the course of the last twelve months, I’ve discovered four food-themed publications which are perfect for the frustrated food traveller.

Fare is the best place to start. Published quarterly, each issue takes a single city and through a combination of articles and interviews, all loosely based around food, gives you a feel of what life is like in their chosen destination. To date, there are seven issues and the cities range from Helsinki to Seoul. I’ve caught up on all of them and each has left me wanting to visit the city and sample the cuisine. 

The most recent was based in Antwerp and I find this particularly interesting as it was the first based in a city I’d visited. Reading about the wonderful local food and the near-perfect local beers has put a return visit via Eurostar well towards the top of my post coronavirus wish list.

Issue eight is due to be published soon and will be based in Lima. My knowledge of Peruvian food is very limited, but I do remember, all be it vaguely, having one too many Pisco_sour in a cocktail bar once. I’m hoping there will be a recipe.


Drift magazine also takes the one city at a time approach, but in their case, the content is purely the local coffee culture. Anyone who follows me on Twitter will know that in normal times I’m a coffee shop addict and very prone to sharing photos of what I’m drinking. If you’re even remotely of the same mind, this is the magazine for you. The photography is wonderful throughout, a fact made even better by the current issue being based in Manhattan, making the whole thing feel very cool indeed. Truly a coffee table coffee magazine.

Fatboy Zine is a Hong Kong publication, and also possibly the perfect foodie title, which I discovered via Magazine Brighton, a treasure trove of a website for all magazine addicts. Based solely in Hong Kong, Fatboy tries to combine food and local recipes with a feel of what local life is like. The copy I have does make a lot of references to the troubles of the last twelve months and following the recent crackdowns on local media outlets you have to worry for its future.

Ahead of writing this I flipped through my copy and noticed a recipe for coca-cola, soy sauce and ginger chicken. I think we may be having a Hong Kong meal soon.

Sandwich magazineis my final choice. If a sandwich magazine isn’t niche enough, they go even deeper by making each issue specific to a single type or setting. I’ve got two copies now, the first themed around the New England lobster roll, the second about African food. The writing is broad, in particular for the African issue where the history of the continent and the impact it still has on what’s being eaten today is the main theme.

So if you can’t find me, it’s probably because I’m sat somewhere with a coffee and indulging in some stay at home travelling.

The Thrill of What Might Be.

I sometimes fear I’ve boxed myself in a little with the name of this blog. Perhaps it should be ‘David in the kitchen, with a desk in the corner for when he wants to write about something other than food’.

Writing a blog was something I’d wanted to do for a long time and taking a creative writing course a couple of years ago provided the much needed final push to make it happen. The course was based around life experiences and memoir, although I did manage to weave my love of food into some of the work I produced, for much of what we were doing that wasn’t an option.

For a self-confessed glutton and obsessive baker, the food posts are always going to be predominant on here, but I do want to broaden things from time to time. A bit more memoir and a bit more fiction

I wrote this piece in response to a writing challenge that Alison Trollop posted for her Patreon followers. She asked for something of approximately 250 words and trains had to be central to it. It’s a little bit memoir and a little bit of fiction.

It’s not the getting there or the leaving home I miss, it’s the travelling. The expectation and  anticipation. The buzz of the unknown, the thrill of what might be.

Stuck at home these last nine months I’ve pined for many things, whined for what I’m missing. And at the end of the day, it all comes down to going somewhere. Stepping out of the routine and going just beyond the horizon.

For you and me that will always mean taking a train.

Remember when we were still illicit, looking over our shoulders all the time, wondering who we might bump into, what might be around the next corner. Back then the train was our route out, our escape.

We were married, admittedly not to each other, and neither of us had done anything like this before. Both of us proof perfect that you’re never too old for a mid-life crisis. Sometimes we’d travel together from the start, other times we’d meet at a station cafe en route. Almost as if we were characters in Brief Encounter. Looking back it seems a little crazy, but damn it was exciting.

Those were the trips when we really got to know each other. When we both realised there was no going back to lives we didn’t want anymore.

Ten years on and neither of us did go back. We may both have gotten a little scorched by some of the fires we started, but we’re not illicit anymore and when this is all over we’ll jump on a train and go just beyond the horizon again.

These are a few of my favourite things.

Is there a food that makes you happy, even just thinking about it? This was the question my friend Alison asked her followers on Twitter the other night.

 My initial thought was ‘I’ve got so many’. So many that prompt a smile and a stirring of the taste buds. I could choose:

A plate of fresh mussels. This one qualifies twice, first from a childhood holiday to Italy when we stayed at a campsite by the beach.  It must have been deep in the south as I remember also visiting Sicily on the trip. The campsite had a waterside bar with outside tables and we sat one evening eating fresh mussels, caught by the local fisherman earlier in the day. Their salty, succulent flavour was unlike anything I’d ever tasted before and they’ve been a lifelong favourite.

My second mussels infused memory is the first evening of my first visit to Paris. Sat outside again,  maybe mussels should always be eaten alfresco, this time at a Latin Quarter bistro. The trip was the fulfilment of a long-held dream and for the second time in my life a plate of seafood had me thinking ‘it doesn’t get better than this’

My mothers chocolate biscuit set. Mum had a book full of recipes from a cookery course she’d taken when living in London in the early sixties. She’d often dip into it and this one was always my favourite. Looking back I suppose it wasn’t unlike what I know now as a Rocky Road.

It was made with dark rich chocolate, crushed biscuits, nuts and cherries. It was set solid in a cake tin, I remember it being sliced almost like bread, and eating it with a portion of vanilla ice cream was heaven. Writing this hasn’t just made me smile, it’s made me think I must check to see whether dad still has those recipes.

An Angel Cake. If your reading this outside of the UK I probably need to explain that an Angel Cake is a three-layer sponge, one white, one pink, one yellow. All sandwiched together with vanilla  cream. If I was ever lucky enough to have a slice I’d always separate the layers and eat the cream before going onto the sponge. Until recently I’d thought of Angel Cake as a shop-bought childhood treat, something I had very rarely these days. This was until the last series of Great British Bake Off when they cropped up as one of the challenges. I had to have a go, managed to create the multi-coloured sponges, and now I can indulge whenever I want to.

I could have picked any of these, but in the end, I plumped for something more recent. Something that makes me pine as much as it makes me smile. The joy of ordering a piece of cake to go with my cup of coffee. Here in Norwich, we’re blessed with a fine array of independent coffees hops and pre coronavirus I was a regular at many of them. Figbar is my favourite and it’s the thought of going back there at some point this year for a slice of their hundreds & thousands cake that I’m smiling about.

Is there a food that makes you happy, even just thinking about it?

Apple, cardamom & buckwheat muffins

One of my regular Google searches is to check just how much notice I need to take of the ‘best before’ or BBE dates on food items in my pantry.

Now we’re back into a full-blown lockdown here in the UK I’m once again going through the shelves to see what we’ve got and more importantly how soon it needs to be consumed by. I do try to use things in sequence but the lockdowns have shown me that maybe I’m not quite as methodical as I like to think.

Best before dates are one of the banes of kitchen life. For starters what do they actually mean? Will the food no longer be edible after the date, will it be marginally changed from when you first tasted it, or are they the manufacturers get out of jail card. My guess is there is a large element of the later, almost as if to say ‘don’t blame us if it doesn’t taste quite as good as when you opened it’. This is backed up by the fact that so far all of my searches have found the food to be usable way beyond the BBE.

At a time when food waste, and efforts to reduce it, is becoming an ever bigger issue I can’t help thinking these dates are a major contributory factor. Without a clear understanding of their meaning, many people are going to see them as ‘use by’ dates and assume anything beyond them has to be binned.

One of the first pantry items to spark this search on the current lockdown was a bag of Buckwheat flour. This is a particularly flavoursome flour which works well in cakes and other sweet bakes.

In the last couple of years, I’ve become a bit of an obsessive and am prone to head straight for the flour shelves in any bakery, deli or health food store I enter, although not at the moment of course. The problem is I tend to bake with the new one as soon as I get it, but then the tail end of the packet somehow finds it’s way to the back of the shelf, hidden by my latest purchase

The good news is the Buckwheat flour was still perfectly usable and this Benjamina Ebuehi recipe was the perfect way to use it up. The beauty of this recipe is the fruit, spice and flour can all be changed around to make use of whatever you have to hand in your cupboards. Exactly the sort of recipe we need at the moment.

Ingredients

  • 2 eating apples – peeled & cored
  • 130g buckwheat flour
  • 75g caster sugar
  • 1tsp baking powder
  • 0.5 tsp bicarbonate of soda
  • pinch of salt
  • 1 egg
  • 60g unsalted butter – melted
  • 100ml milk
  • 1tsp vanilla extract
  • 0.5tsp cardamom pods – crushed

To top

  • 1tbsp oats
  • 1tbsp pumpkin seeds
  • 2tbsp demerara sugar

Method

  • Heat the oven to gas mark 7 and grease or line a six-hole muffin tin.
  • Grate one of the apples and chop the other into 1cm cubes
  • Sift the flour, sugar, baking powder, bicarb & salt into a bowl.  
  • In another bowl whisk the egg, melted butter, milk, vanilla and cardamom, then stir in the grated apple.
  • Pour the wet mixture into the dry and then gently fold together.
  • Pour the batter into the muffin tin and press some of the apple chunks into each cup. 
  • Sprinkle with the oats, seeds and demerara. 
  • Bake for 8 minutes, then reduce the oven to gas mark 4 and bake for another 10 minutes.
  • Leave to cool completely before turning out of the tin. 

Now doesn’t feel like the time for abstemiousness

Everywhere I look at the moment I’m seeing references to #dryJanuary or #veganuary. Even to the extent that spellcheck just found veganuary for me when I misspelt it. If ever there were frequency illusions I didn’t want to be happening at the moment, it’s these.

Don’t get me wrong, I’ve got nothing against the principles behind either idea, but now just doesn’t feel like the time. I’m sure we’ve all over-indulged in the last few weeks, but in the middle of winter, with updates on the pandemic making me ever more reticent to pick up a newspaper or turn on the TV, I have no urge at all to plunge into a vat of self-imposed abstemiousness. 

I will hold my hand up and admit to feeling a little like this every January, as it always feels quite a foodie time for me. Particularly as my birthday comes very quickly after Christmas and with each year that goes by more and more of the presents I receive are food-related. This year I had a couple of interesting food parcels which I’ll be revelling in this month and a new cookbook which is already adding many recipes to my ‘must cook’ list.

The first food parcel was a selection from The Tinned Fish Market. This company specialises in exotic and unusual tinned fish from around the world. You can buy individual tins, selection boxes, or take out a subscription and have something interesting drop through your letterbox once a month. If you’ve clicked the link you will have already seen that the products look wonderful, and on the evidence of the tin I’ve tried they taste pretty damn good too. I received the Taberna Sardine box and I don’t think there’s much doubt that in time I’ll be going back for more.

If these weren’t enough, I also received a selection of in-house food from Ottolenghi. I bought Ottolenghi’s new cookbook a few months ago and my partner knew I’d been finding it difficult to lay my hands on some of the more exotic ingredients which it requires during the lockdown. She’s solved the problem for me with this gift and given me a further excuse for some January indulgence. The first thing I tried is the jar of Green Shatta and I’m hooked. Your first thought is inevitably about the heat it packs, but then there are layers of peppery flavour that almost leave a sweet aftertaste. I just love it when a new food comes along which you’ve never tried before but now don’t want to be without.

My final foodie treat came via my dad when he gave me Nigella Lawson’s new book for my birthday. Cook, Eat, Repeat is one of those books that does exactly what it says on the cover. Full of recipes you’ll want to cook and eat, then at the first available opportunity do it all over again. If you’ve already got a Nigella book on your shelf, or seen her TV shows, you won’t need me to tell you that no one writes or talks about food quite as enthusiastically as she does.  

So after a few weeks when I find myself flagging, hence the infrequent posts on here, I’m feeling a bit revived by all these good things and looking to get up and running for the new year.

P.S Good luck If you’re taking part in either #dryJanuary or #veganuary. You’ve got a stronger will than I have.

Getting back into the kitchen

If this year has taught me anything it has to be the importance of concentrating on the small things. At a time when so much feels to be out of our control, we’ve all learnt the hard way that making grand plans or trying to look too far ahead is a fool’s errand and bound to end in disappointment. Taking things one day at a time has been my coping mechanism for 2020 and I don’t see much changing as we move into next year.

Thankfully the news about coronavirus vaccines is offering some glimmers of light, all the more so in our case, as my partner’s mother has her first injection tomorrow. She’s recovering slowly from the fall I mentioned in my last post but is well enough to go ahead with this. She’ll then get her second jab in early January and all being well should then be immune to the virus. Unfortunately, she’s getting herself very stressed about it. We’re doing our best to keep her calm but things weren’t helped by yesterday’s news concerning Norwich, where we live, as it appears to be one of the main areas in the UK affected by a new strain of coronavirus. Everyone seems confident it shouldn’t change anything, but it’s yet another example of not knowing what’s just around the corner.

The highpoint for me in the last week was finally getting back into the kitchen. Caring duties had put things on hold but this weekend the urge for something sweet got just too strong. Hopefully, a sign things are getting back to normal, or at least what currently passes for it.

The bake I went for was florentines. Biscuits made with nuts and candied peel which are cooked with sugar, butter and honey. Once the biscuits have cooled they are then coated on one side with chocolate.

They are an ideal bake for these times as you can use whatever dried fruit or nuts you have to hand. A purist will tell you it has to be almonds and apricots but if you fancy having a go, use whatever you have to hand.

I find this recipe makes a dozen good size biscuits

Ingredients

  • 50g plain flour
  • 25g mixed peel
  • 25g dried fruit – finely chopped…I used dates for my bake
  • 50g flaked almonds – chopped
  • Zest of an orange…you can use lemon zest if you prefer
  • 50g butter
  • 50g light brown sugar
  • 50g golden syrup
  • 100g chocolate…I use plain but milk will work

Method

  • Preheat the oven to gas mark 4 and line two baking trays
  • Combine the flour, peel, dried fruit, nuts and zest in a bowl
  • Put the butter, sugar and golden syrup in a saucepan over a low heat. Remove from the heat once the butter has melted and the mixture is bubbling. Leave to cool for a couple of minutes.
  • Pour the dry mix into the caramel mixture and stir to combine.
  • Use a spoon to place a dozen small rounds of the mixture onto the baking trays. Make sure to leave lots of room between each round as they spread well during baking.
  • Bake for 8 minutes. When ready each round should have spread out and turned golden brown.
  • Leave the biscuits on the tray for a few minutes before gently removing them to a cooling rack.
  • Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl over simmering water. Once the biscuits are cool use a teaspoon to spread chocolate over one side of each of them.
  • Let the chocolate set, I find 30 minutes in the fridge, then serve.
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